Making tracks

Cross country skis and snowshoes open exciting doors on western Montana's backcountry for outdoor enthusiasts

By MICHAEL JAMISON of the Missoulian

KALISPELL - When the days are short and the mountains are hip deep in snow and ice and cold, western Montanans have two options: Learn to love winter, or go crazy with cabin fever.

Fortunately, if you can walk, you can snowshoe, and if you can shuffle, you can cross country ski.

Either way, it's mighty easy to get out in it, traveling through the bones of the forest, far from the mosquitoes and bears and tourist crowds that complicate summertime adventures. This time of year, the snow becomes a highway for Nordic skis and snowshoes, and those ski paths become thoroughfares for the many critters that tell their tales in seasonal tracks.

To find your own private track, check out "Montana Winter Trails: The best cross-country ski and snowshoe trails," written by Whitefish author Jean Arthur.

After an introduction full of tips for beginners and experts alike, Arthur lists her pick of the state's top spots for winter fun. In northwestern and western Montana, a sample of those trails includes:

Glacier National Park and environs: In winter, the famous Going-to-the-Sun Road becomes a scenic cross-country ski and snowshoe route, winding beneath ice-capped peaks as it traces the curves of McDonald Creek. The road is plowed to Lake McDonald Lodge; beyond the lodge, it's skis and snowshoes only.

By breaking away from the historic highway, backcountry travelers can track up the trail to Avalanche Lake, a crowded and popular spot in the summer, but almost guaranteed for solitude in winter months.

On the park's southern boundary is the Autumn Creek trail, a scenic trip starting at Marias Pass and working west through groves of aspen and pine. Other park routes include the well-tracked Inside North Fork Road on the park's western slopes, popular with motorists in the summer but left buried for skiers through the winter. From the small outpost of Polebridge, ski-packed tracks lead to Kintla and Bowman lakes, as well as to large meadows that are home to wolves, bears, elk and other wildlife.

Essex/Izaak Walton Inn: The hub of this groomed trail system is the Izaak Walton Inn, where visitors can rent skis and snowshoes, enjoy a fine meal and stay overnight. Looping through the forest surrounding the inn are about 20 miles of trails, groomed for skiing, skating and snowshoeing. Some visitors choose to take a romantic rail ride into Essex, which is a twice-daily whistle-stop for passenger trains.

Whitefish: Well-known for its alpine skiing at the Big Mountain ski resort, Whitefish also is home to several skinny-ski tracks. The Glacier Nordic Center is just a mile west of downtown Whitefish, but its seven miles of groomed trails feel like a day in the backcountry.

Instructors and night skiing make this a popular stop. Just up the hill, at the foot of Big Mountain's ski runs, another 10 miles of groomed trails loop through the forest at the Big Mountain Nordic Trails. Rentals, lodging and other resort services keep this area busy, as do snowshoers who shun the lifts to trek to the summit of the Big Mountain.

About a dozen miles west of Whitefish are nine miles of groomed trails covering rolling hills at Round Meadows. The wide and scenic trails are known for an abundance of wildlife.

Libby: The 15 kilometers of trail at South Flower Creek are groomed twice a week and are a favorite for kids and families. Other popular routes near Libby include a track on Treasure Mountain, Rainbow Lake Trail and Summit Trail to the top of Flatiron Mountain.

Flathead Lake: Montana's newest downhill ski resort, Blacktail Mountain in Lakeside, also offers 25 miles of groomed single track and packed skating and snowshoeing trails. Most routes offer a lot of up-and-down terrain, although there are a few flats to catch your breath and take in the views of Flathead Lake.

Bigfork: Jewel Basin is as popular with skiers as it is with summer hikers. Its 40 miles of trails are quite challenging, ranging across mountainous backcountry terrain. The 15,000-acre hiking and skiing area, located just north of the Bob Marshall Wilderness, is off-limits to motorized use, making it a quiet haven for touring and telemark skiing.

Climbing skins, backcountry gear and avalanche safety equipment are recommended. Dogs are allowed, but must be kept on leashes.

For the more faint of heart, the four-mile round-trip on Bigfork's Swan River Nature Trail is a gentle option, offering tracks for both skiers and snowshoers.

Seeley-Swan Valley: Scenic trails along Holland Lake offer striking views of the Swan Mountains and Holland Falls. More than six miles of groomed trails start at Holland Lake Lodge, leading to more than 25 miles of backcountry trails.

The Holland Gordon Trail No. 35 leads to spectacular views from 7,500-foot Gordon Pass, a popular entrance to the Bob Marshall Wilderness.

Just south of the Holland Lake trail complex are 11 miles of groomed trails near Seeley Lake. Once a primitive trail system, these paths are now professionally groomed and a favorite of cross-country ski racers.

Missoula area: The hills surrounding Garnet ghost town are home to some of the state's loveliest ski trails, as well as remnants of mining history. At 6,000 feet, Garnet has good snow early and late in the season, and offers "very rustic" cabins for rent to skiers and snowshoers.

To reach Garnet, skiers trudge up 1,500 feet from the Beartown parking area. Several loop trails are available from Garnet.

Closer to Missoula, the Rattlesnake National Recreation Area and Wilderness is a great place for making tracks. Popular routes include the seven-mile Spring Gulch Trail and the ascent from there to Stuart Peak. South of the Rattlesnake are groomed trails in Pattee Canyon, providing easy access for beginner to intermediate skiers.

Lolo area: Lolo Pass is a wintertime playground, with nearly 50 miles of trails for skiers, snowshoers, snowboarders, telemark fans and snowmobilers. All trails leave from the parking lot atop the pass on U.S. 12, on the Montana-Idaho border. Popular trails include the Packer Meadows Loop Trail, Dennis E. Elliott Memorial Snowshoe Trail and Lee Creek Trails.

Nearby Mount Fuji offers great powder runs for tele-skiers and boarders.

Darby area: The Chief Joseph cross country ski trails cover about 15 miles of terrain for all levels, and are groomed weekly by the Bitterroot X-C Ski Club. Because the trailhead is at the top of Chief Joseph Pass, most routes begin with a downhill and finish with a climb to complete the loop. The Sunny Meadow Loop is especially good for kids.

Also near Darby are the North Big Hole-Saddle Mountain Trails, covering more than 30 miles of skier-packed backcountry. The ungroomed trails offer excellent backcountry access for advanced skiers and telemark specialists. A good map and avalanche gear are advised.

Some trailheads are located at Chief Joseph Pass, while others begin at the Lost Trail Powder Mountain ski resort.

Wisdom: Moose, elk and big raptors are frequent sights on the 10 miles of groomed trails at the Big Hole Battlefield. Although most tours of the historic site are self-guided, several ranger-led trips are scheduled each winter. Views include the expansive Big Hole Valley, Big Hole Mountains and 8,205-foot Ruby Peak.

Reporter Michael Jamison can be reached at 1-800-366-7186 or at mjamison@missoulian.com

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