One a penny, two a penny, hot cross buns!
If you have no daughters, give them to your sons
The season for hot cross buns, those big mildly spiced yeast rolls packed with currants or raisins and decorated with a cross of white icing, begins the first day of Lent and lasts until Easter.
England seems to be where the buns were born, but just how and when they originated is still something that is unresolved.
Today, hot cross buns commemorate Good Friday, the icing cross symbolizing Jesus' crucifixion. But in pagan times, which many scholars believe was when the buns first made their appearance, the cross may have signified the perfect balance at the time of the spring equinox. One source, “Brewer's Dictionary of Phrase and Fable,” states that, “The round bun represents the full moon, and the cross represents the four quarters of the moon. They (the buns) were made in honor of Diana by the ancient Roman priests somewhere about the vernal equinox.”
Whatever the buns' origin, I like to bake them year-round. The dough is easy to make, handles well, and the buns are scrumptious. Feel free to substitute all sorts of dried fruits for the currants. Chopped dried cranberries, dried blueberries, chopped dried apples, or golden or dark raisins are excellent. Or add a mixture of dried fruits for more complexity.
The buns are best when very fresh, but leftover buns can be frozen, wrapped in foil and successfully reheated.
A final note: You can, if you wish, omit the slashing of the buns and the decorative icing.
Hot Cross Buns
These mildly spiced, sweet yeast rolls, usually made with currants or raisins kneaded into the dough, are traditionally baked during Easter. Serve these when very fresh, preferably warm, split and spread generously with butter.
3 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more if needed 1/3 cup granulated sugar 1 package (2 1/4 teaspoons) active dry or fast-rise yeast 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1 cup hot milk (120 to 130 degrees) 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into pieces 2 large eggs 3/4 cup dried currantsGlaze:
1 large egg 2 teaspoons milkIcing
3/4 cup confectioners' sugar 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice Milk, if neededTo measure the flour, scoop dry measuring cups into the flour container to overflowing and sweep off the excess with a metal spatula.
To make the dough with a heavy-duty mixer, place 3 cups of flour, the granulated sugar, yeast, salt, cinnamon and ginger into the large bowl of a heavy-duty mixer. Add the hot milk, butter and eggs.
Beat with the flat beater on low speed until the mixture is thoroughly moistened, then beat at medium speed for 5 minutes. Attach the dough hook and add the remaining 1/2 cup flour. Knead on low speed to incorporate the flour, then increase the speed to medium and knead until the dough is soft, smooth and elastic and only slightly tacky, about 5 minutes.
To make the dough by hand, combine 3 cups of flour, the granulated sugar, yeast, salt, cinnamon and ginger in a large bowl. Add the hot milk, butter and eggs, and beat well with a wooden spoon to make a soft dough.
Spread the remaining 1/2 cup flour on your work surface and scrape the dough onto it. Knead in the flour and continue kneading until the dough is smooth, elastic, and only slightly sticky, about 8 minutes.
To make the dough in a food processor, use the plastic dough blade or metal blade. Place all of the flour, the granulated sugar, yeast, salt, cinnamon and ginger in the work bowl. Add the softened butter and eggs.
Start the motor and pour the hot milk through the feed tube in a slow, steady stream, taking about 20 seconds to do so. Once the dough gathers into a ball, process for 45 seconds to knead. The dough should clean the sides of the work bowl. If the dough is too wet, add flour by tablespoons with the machine running. If it's too dry, add milk (which does not have to be hot) by teaspoonfuls. The dough should be soft, smooth, elastic and only slightly tacky when the kneading is complete.
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead in the currants to distribute them evenly. Shape the dough into a ball. Coat a 3-quart bowl lightly with oil or with cooking spray, and place the dough in the bowl. Turn the dough to coat all surfaces.
Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let the dough rise at room temperature until it has doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours. Test the dough by pressing it with a fingertip. The depression should remain when you remove your finger.
Line one large cookie sheet (14-by-17 inches) with cooking parchment or coat the pan lightly with cooking spray. Turn the risen dough out onto your work surface and pat it gently to remove air bubbles.
Divide the dough into 12 even pieces and cover loosely with a kitchen towel for 10 minutes. Shape each piece of dough into a ball, pinching the seams securely. Place the balls on the prepared sheet seam side down, spacing them about 3 inches apart.
Cover loosely with a kitchen towel and let the buns rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Make the egg glaze by beating the egg and milk with a fork in a small bowl.
Adjust an oven rack to the center position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees. When the buns have rested for 30 minutes (they will not have doubled in size), snip an “X” in the tops of each with sharp scissors, making the cuts about 2 inches long and 1/2 inch deep. Brush the buns with the egg glaze and let them rest, uncovered, 15 minutes.
Place the pan in the oven and bake about 20 minutes, until the buns are a rich brown color.
Rotate the pan front to back once about halfway during baking. With a wide metal spatula, transfer the buns to cooling racks.
When the buns are almost cool, prepare the icing. Whisk the confectioners' sugar, vanilla and lemon juice together in a small bowl to make a mixture thick enough to hold its shape and not be runny. Add milk by droplets if the icing is too thick. Transfer the icing into a zip-top bag.
Snip off a corner of the bag with scissors to make a small (1/8-inch or slightly larger) opening. Pipe a cross of icing onto each bun.
Serve the buns once the icing has set.
Makes 12 large buns.Greg Patent writes a monthly column about food for the Missoulian. His cookbook, “Baking in America,” won the 2003 James Beard Award for best baking book of the year. Patent co-hosts a weekly radio show about food with Jon Jackson Sundays at noon on KUFM.
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