Elsewhere in today's paper is the news that The Bridge's original restaurant is closing, although the restaurant's menu will continue in a revamped version at the second location.The Bridge's owners, Shirley Juhl and David McEwen, have operated restaurants in Missoula for more than 30 years. They attracted some top-notch culinary talent through the years - including the chef who is taking over The Bridge's space and opening a new restaurant this fall.
In this week's column is an item about another one of The Bridge's former employees, who now runs a restaurant of his own downtown; and one of my favorite soup recipes from Juhl and McEwen, for a soup I first tried in the early 1980s.
Anyone who's eaten at The Bridge or any of its earlier versions probably has a favorite dish. Two decades ago, when the Missoulian first moved across the street from the restaurant - called the Lily then - Greek salad was a twice-weekly lunch item for me. I'd never heard of feta cheese before becoming hooked on that eat-at-my-desk salad.
Also a favorite from the menu: Cold Strawberry Soup. McEwen and Juhl, owners of The Guilded Lily/The Lily/The Bridge, have been serving it since the mid-1970s. Now mainstream, cold soups were a novelty for Missoula (and for me) then.
Here's the recipe for Cold Strawberry Soup, courtesy of McEwen and Juhl. After the Missoulian first ran this recipe more than 20 years ago, I made it many times for friends and family, always with success.
The key, says McEwen, is to use the finest strawberries possible. Be sure to try this next year, when locally grown strawberries are in peak season; you'll never have a sweeter, richer treat. Until then, shop around for the best ripe berries imported from other growing zones.
The Bridge's Cold Strawberry Soup
2 quarts of washed and de-stemmed fresh ripe strawberries
1 cup sour cream
1 pint white zinfandel wine
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup whipping cream
1 tablespoon powdered sugar
Fresh mint sprigs
Using a food processor or a blender, blend the berries, sour cream and wine until smooth. Add more or less sugar, to taste.
Whip cream until stiff and add powdered sugar to taste.
Serve chilled soup in chilled bowls, and garnish with a dollop of whipped cream, a strawberry and a sprig of mint.
Substitute other white wines if you like.
Biga Pizza
241 W. Main St.
Bob Marshall, who co-owns Biga Pizza with his wife, Cindy Marshall, was the sous chef for Juhl and McEwen when they re-opened The Lily as The Bridge. At the time, he was baking for Freddy's Feed & Read, a popular bookstore-eatery in the University Area that is now closed.
Three months ago, the Marshalls opened Biga, and the tables have been full ever since.
“Biga” is an Italian term for sourdough starter, and that's how Biga Pizza's pizzas get started. The pizzas are Neapolitan style - from Naples and southern Italy - with thinner, lighter, sourdough crusts, cooked in a brick oven.
“It's a pizzeria format, but a lot of the food I'm doing is contemporary cuisine,” Marshall said.
Different specials are offered every week, depending on what's in season, he said. Marshall says he uses “special” not as a pantry-clearing event, but as a way to spotlight what's fresh and available.
An example: Cabbage is in season from local growers right now, and Biga Pizza is making a pizza topped with blue cheese, pecans, provolone and fresh mozzarella cheeses, currants and a cabbage slaw.
The restaurant roasts its own garlic, onions and vegetables, uses fresh herbs, and adds “little twists” with flavor combinations for the dishes, he said.
“I've become addicted to the new products,” said Marshall. “What pizza place orders so many string beans, fresh herbs, heirloom tomatoes, leeks? We go through more than 20 pounds of mixed greens a week, and 10 pounds of fresh basil.”
“This is a really exciting time of year, with all the fresh produce,” he said. “I'm catering to people who want to go out for pizza but who also want fine dining.”
Biga's specialty salads include caprese (fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, fresh basil, extra virgin olive oil, sea salt, cracked peppercorn) for $5 or $8; panzanella (braised scallions, roasted mushrooms, tomatoes, cucumbers, red onion, kalamata olives, feta, fresh basil and mozzarella, roasted garlic, olive oil, vinegar, Reggianno cheese, and toasted house bread) for $8, and a seafood version of panzanella for $11.
Sandwiches run $7 to $8, and include Tuscan tuna, Italian sausage, olive tapenade, pesto, prosciutto or Italian salami. Pizzas are 12 inches or 16 inches, $8 to $18. A few from the menu: artichoke (artichoke hearts, feta, roasted red peppers, mozzarella, kalamata olives, garlic, olive oil); the Pompeii (spinach, ricotta cheese, roasted garlic, roasted peppers, olive oil, mozzarella); Caramelized Goat (caramelized onions, goat cheese, fresh herbs, mozzarella, roasted garlic, olive oil); and Pizza Pescatore (broiled shrimp, calamari, roma tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil and herb oil).
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