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Classic salads for any season - Complement cookouts with cole slaw, potato vinaigrette

Three-Tone Cole Slaw, right, and Potato Salad Vinaigrette make fine additions to parties, picnics and cookouts and can be prepared one to three days in advance.
Photo by LINDA THOMPSON/Missoulian
This part of our state seems to be experiencing the sentiment that the great songwriter Frank Loesser expressed in his classic, “Spring Will Be a Little Late This Year.” Instead of the floral and leafy explosions that arrive by mid-May, we have mountain snow to remind us of winter’s lingering presence.

Of course, all this can change in an instant, so don’t hold me to my words. In my attempts to maintain a diet consistent with our fickle seasons, I find myself still drawn to crops associated with the fall. This is not a bad thing, because cabbage, carrots and potatoes taste good at any time of year. And our farmers market is hardly bursting with spring salad greens yet.

So I offer up two really fine salads for this or any time of year. Both make fine additions to parties, picnics or backyard cookouts. And they may be prepared 1 to 3 days ahead and refrigerated.

The cole slaw is something I came up with while I traveled the country demonstrating the Cuisinart food processor. I used the machine to make the dressing and shred the cabbages and carrots into the work bowl. Then I upended the whole thing into a large serving dish, tossed everything together, and voila - an almost instant salad. Today, I still make the mayonnaise dressing with the food processor, but I cut the cabbage into shreds with a large chef’s knife and I use a box grater to shred the carrot.

Classic mayonaissey potato salad has always been a favorite of mine, but this time an olive oil vinaigrette replaces the mayonnaise, giving the salad a lighter, fresher taste. Be sure to use excellent olive oil and vinegars for the best results.

Three-Tone Cole Slaw

Red and green cabbage and carrots give this colorful salad its name, and a tangy homemade mayonnaise binds everything together. If you’re concerned about egg safety, use 1 1/2 cups of commercial mayonnaise instead, and whisk in the cider vinegar, mustard, salt, pepper, Tabasco, sugar and yogurt.

2 large egg yolks

1/4 cup cider vinegar

1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Dash of Tabasco

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 cup corn oil

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup plain yogurt

3/4 pound (trimmed weight) green cabbage

3/4 pound (trimmed weight) red cabbage

1 large carrot (about 5 ounces), peeled

To make the mayonnaise, put the egg yolks, vinegar, mustard, salt, pepper, Tabasco, sugar and 1 tablespoon of the corn oil into the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Process 1 minute. With the machine running, drizzle in the remaining corn oil and the olive oil through the feed tube in a slow, steady stream, to make a mayonnaise. Scrape the work bowl, add the yogurt, and pulse 2 or 3 times to combine well. Transfer the dressing to a large mixing bowl.

Use a large chef’s knife to thinly slice the cabbages. You should have 8 generous cups. Shred the carrot through the large holes of a box grater. Add the cabbage and three-quarters of the carrot to the dressing and toss to combine well. Cover the bowl and remaining carrot tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate several hours or overnight. Before serving, sprinkle reserved carrot over the salad. This salad keeps well in the refrigerator for 2 or 3 days. Serve cold.

• Makes about 8 servings.

Potato Salad Vinaigrette

This is a refreshing, sprightly salad for a party or picnic. The vinaigrette substitutes for the more classic mayonnaise to give the salad a taste of spring. Dry white vermouth and minced garlic are combined with the warm potatoes for a great depth of flavor. Try to use potatoes of the same size so they’ll be cooked at the same time.

For the salad:

3 pounds boiling potatoes, such as Yukon gold, scrubbed but not peeled

1/4 cup dry white vermouth

2 garlic cloves, minced

3 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced

3 celery ribs, thinly sliced

4 hard-cooked eggs, diced

For the dressing:

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon crumbled dried tarragon leaves

1 medium red bell pepper, cored and cut into thin strips, to decorate the salad

Put the potatoes into a large pot of lightly salted water - potatoes should be covered by about 2 inches of water - and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Partially cover the pot and cook at a steady, slow boil, until the potatoes are easily pierced through with the tip of a sharp knife. This may take 20 to 30 minutes or more depending on the size of the potatoes.

Drain the potatoes in a colander and let cool until you can handle them comfortably, about 10 minutes. One by one, peel the potatoes, cut them in half lengthwise, and slice them crosswise a generous 1/8-inch-thick. Put the potatoes into a large bowl and add the vermouth and garlic. Fold gently and let the potatoes stand a few minutes until the liquid is completely absorbed. Add the scallions, celery and egg, and mix gently to combine well.

Put all of the dressing ingredients into a large screw-cap jar, and shake well to make a vinaigrette. Taste and adjust seasoning, if necessary. Add to the potatoes and fold in gently with a large rubber spatula. Serve the salad warm or at room temperature, or cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate and serve cold.

Decorate the salad with the red pepper strips.

• Makes about 8 servings.

Greg Patent is a food writer and columnist for the Missoulian and Missoula.com magazine. He also co-hosts a weekly show about food with Jon Jackson on KUFM Sundays at 11:10 a.m. His new cookbook, “A Baker’s Odyssey,” has been nominated for a 2008 James Beard Award. Visit Greg’s Web site at www.gregpatent.com.


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