I prepared a proposal for Ten Speed Press, and it agreed to publish the book. I signed the contract, received the first half of my advance, and off I went. The book was to be a hardback release with archival photos and quotes from diaries supporting the historical text, and I was promised a full-color cover photo of some of the modern recipes I created for the book.
A few weeks before the book was scheduled to go to the printer, my editor informed me that because of a downturn in business, my book would be a paperback instead of a hardback, but that the cover would have flaps to make it sturdier and to contain information about the book’s contents along with a bio of me and an accompanying photo. What about the color cover shot, I asked? ” Oh, not a problem, we’ll still be doing that” came the answer.
Fast forward to 2000. I received a call from Falcon Press in Helena asking if it could republish my book. The editor loved it and felt that with a new full-color cover featuring local foods and a new typeface, the book would achieve the success it deserved. I requested a small advance, and we made the deal.
My editing experience with Falcon Press was completely satisfying, and the book it produced looked beautiful. But before the book actually saw the light of day, Falcon was purchased by the Globe Pequot Press in Connecticut. Although the company completely supported my book, it fell between the cracks because of the timing of the acquisition of Falcon Press. Result? The second death of my book.
You can imagine my surprise when I received yet another call from a Globe Pequot Press representative about a year and a half ago saying she’d like to re-re-publish my book, except this time they wanted me to focus completely on Montana and eliminate the other states of the Rocky Mountain West. “Are you sure you want to do this,” I asked? “Three strikes and you’re out, you know.” “Ah,” she said, “but it might also be third time’s a charm.” Well, I couldn’t argue with that level of positive attitude, could I? “May I have a small advance?” was my next question. “Certainly,”
said my editor, and after my agent negotiated the details of the contract, I set to work.
“Montana’s hot now,” said my editor, “and I think we’ll have a very good chance with this approach.” So good-bye to salmon, Dungeness crab, certain wild fungi, some fruits and a few other foods. The vision for the book this third go-round is Montana today. To achieve this, I eliminated archival photos and most of the quotes from diaries. I included three new chapters: Breakfast, Outdoor Cooking and Smoking Foods, along with chapters on Basics; Breads; Appetizers; Soups; Meats; Game; Poultry; Fish and Seafood; Vegetables, Grains and Side Dishes; and Desserts. My text received a complete re-edit, and I am thrilled with the expertise and precision of the editorial staff who worked with me so diligently.
And so, it is with great pride that I welcome “Montana Cooking” to the world. It’s only taken 15 years, but the journey’s been well worth it. To introduce you to my “baby,” I’ve chosen two recipes: Buffalo Burgers with Thyme in Tarragon Cream Sauce, and Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes.
Buffalo Burgers with Thyme in Tarragon Cream Sauce
This may be gilding the lily, but it works. The creamy tarragon-flavored sauce makes this dish suitable for company. If buffalo (bison) isn’t available, feel free to use ground beef or ground elk, venison, or moose.
3 tablespoons corn oil
2 cups finely chopped sweet yellow onions
2 pounds ground buffalo (bison)
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
2 eggs
Unbleached all-purpose flour, for coating
1/3 cup dry white French vermouth
1/2 cup rich beef stock
1 cup whipping or heavy cream
3 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon leaves
1/2 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more if needed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a heavy 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and stir to coat well with the oil. Cover the pan and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook 5 to 8 minutes, until the onion is tender but not browned. Transfer onion to a large bowl, and set aside to cool slightly. Do not wash the skillet.
Add the buffalo, salt, pepper, thyme and eggs to the bowl of onion and mix well with a wooden spoon. Shape the mixture into 6 patties about 3 1/2 inches in diameter and 1 inch thick. Place the flour on a large sheet of waxed paper and lightly coat 3 of the patties, dusting off any excess. (Do this just before cooking or the flour will become gummy.) Add 1 tablespoon of the oil to the pan used to cook the onion and set it over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the coated patties, leaving 1 inch or so between them, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes per side. (Medium-rare patties take about 6 minutes total cooking time.) Transfer the cooked patties to a platter, cover and keep warm. Coat the remaining 3 patties in the flour and cook in remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Cover and keep warm.
Pour off the cooking fat, but leave any browned bits of meat in the skillet. Add the vermouth and stock to the pan and set it over high heat. Bring to a boil, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dislodge the browned bits. Boil rapidly until the liquid is reduced by about half. Add the cream and tarragon and continue boiling another minute or so, stirring continuously, until the sauce is thick enough to lightly coat a spoon. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the lemon juice. Adjust seasoning with more lemon juice and salt and pepper, if desired. Spoon the sauce over the patties and serve immediately. Extra sauce is terrific with the garlic mashed potatoes.
• Makes 6 servings.
Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes
The best potatoes for mashing are the high-starch potatoes such as Russet or Yukon Gold. Remember to start this a couple of hours before serving because the garlic needs to bake in olive oil for 1 hour. Although mashed potatoes are best served as soon as they’re ready, you can reheat them successfully in a saucepan set into a larger pan with an inch or so of hot water over medium heat. Stir frequently with a whisk as the potatoes get hot. For the smoothest potatoes, be sure to use a potato ricer.
2 heads garlic, separated into cloves and peeled
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon salt
3 pounds Russet or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Salt to taste
1/4 cup snipped fresh chives (optional)
Adjust an oven rack to the center position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
Combine the garlic with the olive oil in a baking dish small enough so that the garlic is completely covered with oil. Cover the dish and bake about 1 hour, or until garlic is very soft. Cool slightly, then transfer the garlic and oil to a small wire strainer placed over a bowl. Drain well. Save the oil for sautes or salad dressings.
Bring 2 quarts of water and the 1 tablespoon of salt to a rolling boil in a 4-quart saucepan over high heat. Add the potatoes and return the water to a boil. Cover the pan and cook over medium-high heat until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 15 to 20 minutes. Be sure to cook the potatoes completely; slightly underdone potatoes do not mash well. Cut and taste one to test.
Drain the potatoes and return them to the pan. Stir 1 minute over medium heat to break up the potatoes and drive off excess moisture. Combine the milk and buttermilk in a small saucepan and set it over low heat. Do not allow the milk to boil. To mash the potatoes, pass them through a ricer and return them to the saucepan for the smoothest results. Or mash them in the pan with a handheld electric mixer or a conventional potato masher. When the potatoes are mashed, add the cooked, drained garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, the white pepper, nutmeg and about half the milk mixture. Beat together well with a heavy wooden spatula or handheld electric mixer. Add more of the milk mixture to reach the consistency you like. Adjust the seasoning with salt and white pepper, if desired. Stir in the chives and serve immediately.
• Makes 6 servings.
Greg Patent is a food writer and columnist for the Missoulian and Missoula.com magazine. He also co-hosts a weekly show about food with Jon Jackson on KUFM Sundays at 11:50 a.m. His cookbook, “A Baker’s Odyssey,” was nominated for the 2008 James Beard Award.
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